HYGIENE: Ferrets require routine maintenance to keep them happy and healthy. 

It's best to trim their nails at least every 2-3 weeks.  Nail trimming is important because a long nail will get caught in fabrics causing a painful injury as they struggle to get free.  To clip their nails, put some Ferretone on their tummies and let them lick it off.  Meanwhile you can clip away while they are preoccupied with the Ferretone.  This works very well and is a nice way for you and your ferret to spend some quality time together.  Make sure to cut above the red vein in their nail.  To be safe, always cut conservatively.  A special scissors type nail trimmer for cats or birds is available in pet stores but the standard human fingernail trimmer works well too. 

It's best to bathe ferrets every two months or so.  Bathe them under a faucet in a sink with the faucet continuously running at lukewarm temperature.  Use a tearless baby, cat or ferret shampoo to avoid eye irritation.  Avoid the strong deodorizing ferret shampoos.  These are unnecessary and are uncomfortable to the ferret.  It is very important to rinse thoroughly.  Rub them dry in a fluffy bath towel starting at the head.  Lots of coaxing, reassuring words and patience helps the bath process go a lot smoother.

Bathing a ferret too often will dry out their skin.  This will cause them to secrete more oil to make up for the oil you keep washing off, and thus they end up smelling even more than if you'd leave them go without a bath.  It’s much better just to change/wash their bedding often (at least weekly).  Giving baths without changing the bedding will defeat the purpose.

Ear cleaning is best done monthly or after each bath once they have dried and settled down.  Ferrets do not like to have their ears cleaned!  To control them you must hold them by the scruff or back of their neck (like a mother would carry their young).  This is called "scruffing" and, unlike most adult animals, this will NOT hurt the ferret.  When "scruffing" use 3-4 fingers and the side of your thumb to spread out the pressure.  When "scruffed", most ferrets will hang there totally relaxed.  Then, take a Q-tip moistened with cat/ferret ear cleaner or clean water and put it into their ear canal and carefully wipe it out while rotating it.  It may take a couple Q-tips to get each ear clean.  Examine the Q-tips under a magnifying glass to check for ear mites.  They are tiny white objects that you will see waving their arms.  If you see mites, follow-up with some ear mite drops in the ears.

A bit of Ferretone or a raisin following ear cleaning helps soothe the upset feelings.  You can also tell them how sorry you are for having done such a terrible thing to them and praise them for being soooo patient with you.

FOOD AND WATER:  Ferrets are obligate carnivores and need high quality animal protein.  At Dookie's we feed a mixture of Marshal Premium Ferret Diet, Path Valley Farms Ferret Diet, ProPlan Kitten and Iams Kitten.  At a minimum, feed a hard, dry, high quality ferret or kitten food.  Avoid grocery store food which contains mostly indigestible corn.  Never feed dog food as it doesn't have the protein value and other important ingredients to sustain a ferret and will cause serious health problems.  Also avoid cat food except for the obese fuzzies because it lacks the protein and fat needed by most ferrets.

Fresh food should be available to ferrets at all times.  They have a very quick metabolism and short digestive tract.  They need to eat every 3 to 4 hours.  Likewise, they should have fresh water available to them at all times in either an untippable water dish, a water bottle or preferably both.  A water dish should be refreshed twice daily.

For treats, a raisin torn into smaller pieces and a few drops of Ferretone will suffice.  Most everyone at Dookie's right now absolutely loves N-Bone Chew Treats and Foamy Fries.  Cheap supermarket (Kash 'n Karry/Publix) Adult Cat Food is popular as a treat for several fuzzies here.  It has way too much sugar and corn to feed as a diet but served a piece at a time as a treat it becomes a good, high-protein treat.  Yogis are very popular in the peanut and cranberry flavors, but since they are mostly sugar, limit them to just one or two a day.  Feel free to try almost anything as a treat.  Just about any people food item in moderation is ok, except NO milk or chocolate.  Avoid nuts because they can cause a blockage.  Do try to keep carbohydrates (sugars) to an absolute minimum.  Some good information about ferret nutrition is located at http://www.miamiferret.org/fhc/diet.htm and  http://www.trifl.org/gravy.html.   A good articles on how to choose the right food for your ferret are located at http://www.cypresskeep.com/Ferretfiles/Nutrition-FM.htm and http://www.ohioferret.org/INFO/nutri.asp.  Ferrets that are sick, losing weight or not eating well should be supplemented with "chicken gravy" until they are feeling better.

LITTER BOXES: Like cats, ferrets are litter box trainable.  Unlike cats, ferrets need more than one litter box. When a ferret has to poop, it has to poop NOW.  It will rarely seek out a distant litter box so it’s best to have one very close by.  Three to four litter boxes per room, placed strategically in corners, will usually do the trick.  It's wise to put a couple sheets of newspaper underneath the tray for those near misses.  For corners that you do not want used as a bathroom, try putting in some bedding, or try putting a food or water dish there.  Clean a mistake area and spray with Simple Solution to eliminate odor and discourage reuse.  If all else fails, make it a play corner - put some bedding, a box, some tubing, some toys, they'll eventually get the hint.

For litter box filler, we absolutely prefer Feline Pine Cat Litter or when available, wood stove pellet fuel.  It is easy to keep a litter box clean using these types of litter because the wood pellets turn to powder after getting wet.  The poop can be scooped and then the untouched pellets salvaged from the powder keeping the cost and disposal problem at a minimum.  Twice daily cleanings this way will significantly reduce litter box odor.  Just add pellets as they are used up.  Wood stove pellet fuel is less expensive but is only seasonally available for about $5 a 40 lb. bag and is very hard to find in Florida.  Do not use the clumping cat litter!  Ferrets love to tunnel and snort.  The clumping litter can get in their nose and cause serious medical problems.

CAGES:  Be sure to use a wire type of cage with adequate ventilation.  Never use an aquarium. Cages should be located in an area protected from the elements, preferably indoors.  Ferrets cannot tolerate temperatures over 85º Fahrenheit.  They will suffer, become ill, and will die if housed in a hot room or outdoors in the sun. 

Since ferrets are ground animals, it's better to choose a cage with a large footprint and lower height.  Ferrets tend to stay on the bottom level of the cage especially as they age.  At Dookie's House, we prefer the Midwest MW-140 cage.  Since this cage has two large doors, it's easy to divide the cage to make two (upper and lower) cages.

We set up cages with the following: hammock, bedding, litter box, non-tippable food and water dishes, and water bottle.  Bedding consists of old sweatshirts, manufactured sleep sacks, baby comforters, etc.  Remember to remove all drawstrings.  These could strangle them, and some ferrets like to eat the string.  Do not use any type of wood-chip bedding (cedar, pine, etc.) because wood chips can cause permanent respiratory damage.   Here's what leading ferret veterinarian, Dr. Bruce Williams has to say about aromatic wood chips.

Most ferrets don’t mind the cage too much as long as they get at least two hours out everyday to play and explore.  We prefer NOT to keep ferrets caged on a regular basis.  Only sick or aggressive ferrets see the cage very much.  Others have free run of two rooms, with all of their toys and tubing available to them.  These rooms have been thoroughly ferret proofed.  We provide sleep areas in the room by tossing some bedding into a corner, niche, clothesbasket, cardboard box, just about anything.  If they like it they will climb in and snooze away.  The ferrets are kept in the rooms by a two foot high Plexiglas barrier at the doors.  The rooms are connected by 4" plastic drain piping.

We always have a fully ready travel cage available for the ferrets. This is good should a fire or other disaster occur.  We can round them up and get them to safety with food, water, and litter box available to them.  Another good reason to have an extra cage available is in case a ferret gets sick.  The sick one should be isolated so that you can make sure it is eating, drinking, peeing and pooping ok. 

TOYS: Soft rubber or chewable toys are an absolute no-no since ferrets can inadvertently ingest pieces of them and get an intestinal blockage that could easily kill them. Safer toys include paper bags, very hard rubber toys with no protrusions for them to chew off, plastic toys that won't break, stuffed animals, tubing, etc.  Ferrets love tunnels!  Try some plastic drainage tubing, dryer hose, cardboard carpet tubes, etc.  The Marshal Thru-Way available at Ferret.com is a clear, vinyl tube that stretches to an amazing 20 feet!  Your ferrets will spend hours tunneling their way through the Thru-Way while you catch all the action through its clear shell.  N-Bone Chew Treats and Foamy Fries are both a chew toy and a tasty treat and are completely digestible.  They seem to satisfy the urge to chew on rubbery items.  We also have a lot of fun with the fur mice sold at stores.  Just be sure to throw out worn toys before swallow able pieces start coming off.

FERRET PROOFING: Ferrets love to investigate nooks and crannies.  Climbing and investigating ferrets can get to places you never imagined!  They can fit into an area as small as 2 x 2 inches, so gaps in your woodwork, crevices under refrigerators, cabinets, and other household appliances are common places for ferrets to get into.  Many times, the areas your ferret will fit into are places that you can't get into to retrieve them.  Dryer vents lead to the outdoors, and the hoses that connect your dryer to the outdoors attract ferrets.  They can, and will, dig into and climb through these hoses and become lost outside.  Replace your vinyl dryer vent hose with one made of aluminum that they can't dig into.  Household plants, cleaners and other poisons, and things made of plastic, rubber, and foam are favorite no-nos that ferrets will get into and eat.   Beware of those little paper packets containing a couple of Tylenol tablets or other medicines. They are a prize for a ferret and when chewed will kill.  They are strictly forbidden at Dookie’s House.

Ferrets can open cabinet doors, dresser drawers and can climb into toilets. Many ferrets have tragically drowned in the toilet bowl.  When you do laundry, be sure to shake out each piece of clothing before it goes into the washing machine.  If you pick up a armful of laundry and put it in to be washed, you could be giving a horrible death to a snoozing ferret.  Also, get into the habit of checking inside of your dishwasher, garbage compactor, and refrigerator before you close the doors.  It only takes a moment for your ferret to get into them.  Watch out for recliners, rocking style chairs, hide-away beds and pull-out couches!  Many ferrets have been crushed or mangled to death by these pieces of furniture.  Remove them from your home or at least disable the mechanism.  It is just a matter of time until you, or a guest in your home operates one and kills an innocent fuzzy. 

Finally, the best method of ferret proofing is to watch your ferret closely when he/she is out of the cage. You will learn the places that your ferret is likely to get into trouble, and you will find places that need to be ferret proofed that you hadn't previously considered.

While not strictly considered ferret proofing, shoes present a serious danger to ferrets.  We don't wear shoes around any ferrets here at Dookie's House.  Many ferrets have been seriously injured or killed by a simple misstep by a family member.  Stocking feet and careful, sliding/shuffling types of steps will help avoid a tragedy as well as significant veterinary expense.

FLEAS and TICKS:  Fleas seem to be very common in Florida, even in the winter time.  A flea infestation can, if left untreated, lead to anemia in a ferret, besides being incredibly uncomfortable to the average fuzzy.  Treatment and prevention is very simple.  Apply .1ml  (about 2 drops) of Advantage to the base of each fuzzies skull once a month and you won’t see a flea!  It doesn’t matter if you use the Advantage for dogs or for cats.  The formula is identical.  Ticks seem to be much less of a problem and can be taken care of on a case by case basis exactly as you would for a human.  Avoid all flea sprays and shampoos as they contain ingredients which can be harmful and even toxic to your ferret  

HEARTWORM PREVENTION:  Ferrets are very susceptible to heartworm. The heartworm larva is transmitted by a mosquito to the ferret.  Once inside the ferret it migrates to the heart where it grows to the point that it interferes with the functioning of the heart. Treatment is very difficult, usually involving drug treatment over at least a six-month period.  Survival from heartworm is about 50/50.  If your ferret is kept indoors or in a well-screened porch, he will be ok.  If left exposed at all, they should receive a monthly dose of a heartworm preventative, which is available through your veterinarian.  As with any medication, if you mash up the pill and mix it with Ferretone, your fuzzy will gobble it down with glee.  Heartworm is much more easily prevented than cured.

VACCINATIONS:  Effective January 1, 1999, all ferrets in the State of Florida must be vaccinated against the rabies virus by the time they are four months of age. The only exception would be if a veterinarian has certified that the vaccination would endanger the health of the ferret due to its age or other medical consideration.  Imrab-3 rabies vaccine is the only vaccine approved by the USDA for use in ferrets. Your vet will have this vaccine, as it is the same one used for dogs and cats.  Rabies vaccine should be first administered at 12 weeks and then once every three years thereafter.

Canine distemper is 100% fatal in ferrets and the disease is widespread.  You can bring the disease home to your ferrets on your clothing or shoes.  Fervac-D, Galaxy-D or Merial Purevax are acceptable for ferrets.  We prefer the Merial vaccine as we believe it causes fewer vaccine reactions.  The recommended distemper vaccination schedule is shots at 8 weeks, 11 weeks, 14 weeks and then yearly thereafter.  The breeder of the ferret usually administers the first shot of this series.  Since it takes three consecutive vaccinations to provide adequate immunity to this horrible disease, if the vaccination history of a ferret is not known, it should receive two distemper vaccinations administered at least three weeks apart.

Caution: vaccines can kill your ferret.  We recommend pre-treating with .8ml (about 1/8 teaspoon) of Children's Liquid Benadryl, administered orally about 30-60 minutes prior.  This will not prevent a reaction but will lessen its severity.  It is very important to remain in the vet's office for at least 30 minutes after the vaccination in case of a potentially fatal vaccine reaction.   Be sure to discuss this with your veterinarian prior to inoculation.  Click here for more distemper info.

OTHER HEALTH ISSUES: It's common for a ferret to catch a bug and have a minor bout of vomiting and/or diarrhea, loss of appetite and become severely dehydrated and malnourished in a very short period of time. Some ferrets will become seriously ill and, without supportive care, will die unnecessarily. 

Check his temperature.  This is easily done using a digital thermometer preferably with a flexible tip.  Put some Ferretone on his tummy to distract him and use it to lubricate the thermometer.  Normal temperature range for a ferret is 100-103 degrees, although anytime you see a temperature close to 102.5 degrees, I recommend close observation and a follow-up reading.  Any time a ferret has an elevated temperature, it's time to see the veterinarian for an exam and possibly antibiotics.  Often veterinarians will prescribe antibiotics even if a virus is suspected to preclude a serious secondary infections.

It's smart to weigh your ferret about every 2-3 weeks when you do the nail trimming.  By tracking your ferret’s weight you can better monitor its overall health pattern.  A digital fish scale, a plastic grocery bag and a bit of Ferretone on the tummy make the weighing task simple.  If you see a sudden weight loss of more than 3-4 ounces, supplement your ferret with some "duck soup" or "chicken gravy".  Recipes for both are located here.  Bear in mind that a significant weight loss normally occurs seasonally usually in late spring.  However this weight loss is gradual over several weeks.

Anytime a young ferret has serious vomiting, be concerned about a life threatening blockage or a poisonous substance.  Isolate them, check their food intake, poop and pee output and administer a petromalt laxative. If they are not eating, see if they will accept some "duck soup" or "chicken gravy" and offer fluids including Pedialyte.   Any ferret with persistent vomiting, refusal to eat, or no poop output needs to see the veterinarian NOW!

Older ferrets with a vomiting spell often have just picked up a virus or ate something that didn't agree with them. It is common to see diarrhea along with the vomiting.  Give them .8ml of Emetrol (available over the counter) to settle their stomach and follow-up with supportive care with fluids and "chicken gravy" and consider antibiotics (vet visit) if things don't quickly improve.

No matter the cause of the problem, any ferrets that are not eating kibble or are losing weight need to be fed some "duck soup" or preferably some "chicken gravy".  The "chicken gravy" is an absolute lifesaver and they all love the stuff.  Recipes are located here.  It's also important to ensure that they are keeping well hydrated.  Diarrhea more than a day or so may need antibiotics to improve.  If the diarrhea is very severe then the oral fluids won't be effective since they will just pass through and are not absorbed by the body.  If so, see your veterinarian for some subcutaneous fluids which will be absorbed directly into the ferret's body..

When ferrets reach three years and older, most develop serious but treatable diseases. A good symptom chart for ferret health problems is located at http://www.ferret-fact.org/SymptomChart.htm.  Here are a few common ailments:

Hair loss starting at the base of the tail or across the shoulders and/or a swollen vulva in females, aggressive behavior towards other ferrets, especially in males - Suspect adrenal disease. Prompt surgery will add years and quality to a ferret's life.  If left untreated, adrenal disease commonly results in a horrible, painful death due to urinary blockage in males or death due to anemia/infection in females.  For older ferrets (5+) who are not surgery candidates, Lupron injections will reverse symptoms and greatly improve quality of life but will not correct the underlying disorder.  My vet and I believe that more than 90% of all ferrets will show symptoms of adrenal disease by the time they are five years old with some showing symptoms as early as three years old.

Unconsciousness, drooling, spaced-out behavior, wobbly legs - Suspect hypoglycemia aka low blood sugar. This is usually caused by tumors on the pancreas (insulinoma). Use Karo Syrup on a Q-tip to bring the fuzzy out of the coma. This ferret needs several small, high protein meals "chicken gravy" if not eating on own) throughout the day. See your veterinarian for some helpful medications. Surgery may help or may make the situation worse.

Persistent diarrhea - Suspect Inflammatory Bowel Disease. The ferret may be allergic to the kibble you are feeding it. Ask your vet about antibiotic treatment for gastric helicobacteriosis and diet change.  "Chicken gravy", Pepto Bismol and Kaopectate will be helpful too. Change the ferrets diet to one of the prescription diets.  We've had great success here at Dookie's House with Pro Plan Extra Care Indoor Cat Formula Dry Cat Food.  It is inexpensive, high in protein, lower in fat which is fine for older, often over weight ferrets.  The primary ingredient of Turkey eliminates the chicken protein which is often one of the main causes of this disease.

There are several other diseases common in older ferrets. Anytime your ferret seems to be unusually lethargic, in pain or is not eating, take him to your vet for an exam. Try to catch the problem early.  This will prevent lots of ferret pain and suffering and will save you serious $$ in the long run.  Unfortunately, many veterinarians just haven't got a clue when it comes to ferrets but will charge exotic fees while doing little to help the poor fuzzy. That's why we think it's smart to locate a ferret-wise veterinarian who thoroughly understands ferret pathology and has performed many successful ferret surgeries.

All of the fuzzies here at Dookie's House see Dr. Mitsie Vargas at the Orchid Springs Animal Hospital in Winter Haven. Her hospital is a 1.5 hour drive away for us but definitely worth the trip, even for routine exams and vaccines. There is a listing of Florida ferret shelters here and a nationwide listing of ferret shelters here.  A local ferret shelter could help you with a vet referral if nothing else.

SHOPPING:  I highly recommend Ferret.com for all of your ferret needs. They have very competitive pricing and free shipping. You won’t beat the quality, selection, or price at the local stores. They also strongly support shelters like this one by providing them with wholesale pricing and an affiliate rebate program.